Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Non-Brittle High Precision 3D Printing Liquid Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printing(Grey, 1kg)

I’m using this stuff for parts that need to be precise and strong, and it’s fitting the bill.
I’m in the middle of an engineering project (basically a custom RC plane), and needed some small, precise parts that still need to take decently significant loads. Of course print quality and resolution is a more a matter of what printer you have, but I can say this stuff printed fantastically on my Photon Mono S with the settings recommended by Siraya Tech (you can find a spreadsheet on their website). The parts that I got are incredibly strong. I know this is an ABS-like filament, but I’ve legitimately gotten better performance out of these than actual ABS from an FDM printer. That is most likely because printing orientation does not matter nearly as much, so the parts turn out mostly isotropic (equal strength in all directions). I’ll describe some of the cases I used this for below.MY USE CASES:One of the parts was a stepper motor gear (28BYJ-48) that needed to deal with up to 0.1N*m of torque. I can tell after a lot of use, the section that meshes with the stepper pin has worn down from perfectly tight, to having maybe 3-5 degrees of slack, but it’s still perfectly usable.Many of the parts require linkages between them, so I printed 5mm pins. In my case, I had to reduce the size of the pins to about 95% to avoid clearance issues, but once they were in place the pins had very little friction while still providing very tight joints. Additionally, those pins could handle a surprising amount of shear force. I tested with a 5kg weight, so statically that’s about 2.5MPa, but I also drop tested with that rig, so it could have easily reached 25MPa at one point.CLEANING:Specifically regarding this resin, you have to empty and clean your vat within 2 days if you don’t plan on printing again. This stuff will separate into layers in about that time and becomes harder to clean off the vat. Also, water curing has yielded good results for me.If you’ve never resin printed before this part is for you, otherwise move along:Cleaning the prints is quite a hassle. They come out coated in liquid uncured resin which is, in the case of this resin, definitely a nasty skin irritant and potentially toxic if ingested (most resins are). You’ll need LOTS of isopropyl or denatured alcohol, at least like 2 or 3 tubs or large tupperware containers, lots of paper towels, definitely more gloves than your printer comes with, and some way to get rid of the fumes. The alcohol is smelly enough, but this resin is definitely nasty stuff to be around. You have to be very careful not to get it on your skin or other surfaces (as it is quite drippy off the printer). With this resin, I got the best results by cleaning with alcohol from a spray bottle, then rinsing in water for 30 seconds, and then submerging in a cleaner tub of water before leaving in the sun (for 45 minutes) or shining with a bright UV light (1 minute or more, flipping the part with tweezers). I tend to keep one tupperware container for the alcohol cleaning process, which is very thick with uncured resin, one container for dirty rinse water, and one for clean water (and a bonus extra container to place all my contaminated tools and paper towels). I can usually run with this setup for several prints without changing out the liquids, which is nice because you CANNOT wash this stuff down the drain (unless you want even more micro-plastics in the ocean), and it absolutely has to be cured before you dispose of it. I typically save my 2-liter bottles and old mouthwash bottles, dump everything into those, and leave them out in the sun for a day before putting in the trash.CONCLUSION:If you can deal with the hassle of cleaning and PROPERLY discarding of the waste, then this resin produces results that you simply cannot get with other printing methods. Sure, FDM printing is less toxic and usually easier to get larger prints with, but the precision and speed of resin printing is unmatched. Usually that comes at the cost of poor physical proteries, but with this resin, you can get really small, precise parts with fantastic physical properties.

The “Tough” variant is the best I’ve used
I have used both the “regular” and the “tough” variant of this (Amazon lists them as colors.) The difference seems to be that the tough has some of Siraya Tech’s Tenacious resin added. This resin is also excellent, and it gives the prints a degree of flexibility — they are not brittle at all, and they print perfectly even with “light” supports.The “tough” version is absolutely great for printing DnD Miniatures. They come through clean with light supports, and they are more than adequately detailed to make the end product depend on your painting skills more than your printer. Best of all, you can drop them without fear, and I have yet to have one fail during the printing process.Highly recommended.

Premium Resin
This resin works great, gives great detail and holds up really well in the tough department. My only negative would be the price, it is a premium product and the price reflects that; though there are cheaper options (few) that will give you similar or better results.

Great resin in a bad bottle.
I primarily print miniatures and other TTRPG items. I’ve only tried a few resins, but this one has given me the best results. Compared to other resins, the smell isn’t overpowering (personally, I still wear a respirator, but once I have my printer tented and I take my mask off, any residual odor in the air dissipates almost immediately). It’s also low viscosity and cleans up better than every other resin I’ve used. I go through way less IPA with this stuff! I do find the processed prints to feel brittle… even with the proper exposure time and only a minute of UV curing. I might try mixing in some Tenacity as other reviews have recommended.(Update: About half of all the miniatures that I’ve printed for gaming have broken, despite tinkering with exposure and curing times. I’m definitely going to have to try mixing in tougher resin or switching completely)My only complaint: The bottle. It leaks constantly from beneath the cap, especially when I’m warming the resin before pouring it in the vat. I wipe out the cap and wipe off the neck of the bottle, but no matter what, there’s always residual resin around the cap. Siraya, please fix your bottle design!

Nach einigen prints mit dem Fast Grey und Fast Navy Grey und teilweise auch einigen prints mit 20% Tenacious, kann ich wirklich sagen, dass es ein echt gutes resin ist.Positives:- sehr kurze Belichtungszeit (1,8s für 35um mit Mars 3 Pro beim Grey, 2,2s beim Navy Grey)- gute Details, wobei sie beim Navy Grey deutlich besser zur Geltung kommen- nicht zu spröde (Figurenteile konnten gebohrt und gut bearbeitet werden ohne zu brechen)- behält seine Dimension und schrumpft nach dem curen so gut wie gar nicht- Empfohlene Einstellungen von Siraya Tech für die gängigen Drucker funktionieren gut, können aber auch verfeinert werdenNegativ:- Pigmente separieren sich schnell (beim Navy Grey deutlich schneller als beim Grey), es muss vor jedem Druck sehr gut gemischt werden- beim Navy Grey entstehen sehr schnell und deutlich sichtbare weiße Ablagerungen an Vertiefungen beim austrocknen an der Luft nach dem Waschen (ist schnell mit einer weichen Zahnbürste entfernt)In den Bildern sieht man die Farbunterschiede und detailgrad ganz gut. Alle Figuren sind im 1:8 Maßstab, also ca 24-26cm. Clive im Navy Grey, Dimitri mit Grey und Squall mit Grey und 20% Tenacious (etwas Detailverlust beim Grey+Tenacious Mix).

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