Polymaker Fiberon PA6-GF Glass Fiber Nylon Filament 1.75mm Grey 0.5kg, Fiberon PA6-GF Nylon Warp Free 1.75mm 3D Printing Filament
Original price was: $29.99.$25.49Current price is: $25.49.
Product description
Fiberon PA6-GF25
3D printing filament
HDT(°C) @0.45 MPa: 191
Bending modulus (dry-MPa): 4314
Bending modulus (wet-MPa): 1448
Material characteristics 
Reinforced with 25% glass fibers 
Print in Fiberon PA6-GF25 
Comparison chart for Fiberon materials 
Fiberon Material Comparison
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Customer Reviews
4.6 out of 5 stars 1,194
4.6 out of 5 stars 1,194
4.6 out of 5 stars 1,194
4.6 out of 5 stars 1,194
4.6 out of 5 stars 1,194
4.6 out of 5 stars 1,194
4.6 out of 5 stars 1,194
Price
$25.49$25.49
$35.99$35.99
$62.99$62.99
$29.74$29.74
$55.24$55.24
$21.24$21.24
$59.49$59.49
Nozzle Temperature
280-300°C
280-300°C
260-300°C
250-300°C
280-300°C
270-300°C
310-350°C
Bed Temperature
40-50°C
40-50°C
40-50°C
40-50°C
40-50°C
70-80°C
80-90°C
Printing Speed
Up To 300mm/s
Up to 300mm/s
Up To 300mm/s
Up to 300mm/s
Up to 300mm/s
Up To 300mm/s
Up To 300mm/s
Chamber Temperature
Room Temperature
Room Temperature
Room Temperature
Room Temperature
Room Temperature
Room Temperature
Room Temperature
Flame Retardancy
HB
HB
HB
HB
HB
HB
V0 (1.5mm)
Heat Deflection Temperature
191°C (0.45MPa)
215°C (0.45MPa)
131°C (0.45MPa)
175°C (0.45MPa)
157°C (0.45MPa)
147.5°C (0.45MPa)
252.5°C (0.45MPa)
Young’s Modulus (X-Y axis)
5356.9 ± 211.0 MPa
8636.5 ± 211.4 MPa
3311.2 ± 134.9 MPa
5136.7 ± 192.2 MPa
4293.7 ± 116.4 MPa
5481.0 ± 223.7 MPa
5446.7 ± 149.0 MPa
Tensile Strength (Z axis)
60.7 ± 1.1 MPa
54.0 ± 5.2 MPa
52.2 ± 0.76 MPa
48.3 ± 3.9 MPa
21.5 ± 2.7 MPa
27.9 ± 1.29 MPa
32.0 ± 5.1 MPa
Charpy Impact Strength (X-Y)
27.4 ± 0.5 kJ/m2
24.0 ± 1.0 kJ/m2
33.7 ± 1.4 kJ/m2
29.9 ± 1.6 kJ/m2
24.1 ± 2.4 kJ/m2
25.1 ± 2.8 kJ/m2
11.4 ± 0.7 kJ/m2
Carbon / Glass Fiber wt%
25%
20%
10%
15%
0%
17%
10%
Recommended support material
PolyDissolve S1
PolyDissolve S1
PolySupport For PA12
PolySupport for PA12
PolySupport For PA12
PolySupport for PA12
PolySupport for PA12
Drying condition
100°C 10h
100°C 10h
100°C 10h
100°C 10h
100°C 10h
100°C 10h
100°C 10h
Fiberon by Polymaker: A new product line dedicated to democratizing high-performance composite materials. This cost-effective 3D printing filament is optimized for high-speed printing and offers excellent printability and compatibility with most mainstream and entry-level printers, enabling the production of high-performance parts.
Stiff, Strong, and Heat Resistant Nylon Filament: Polymaker 1.75mm Fiberon PA6-GF nylon filament is a glass fiber-reinforced Nylon 6 that offers excellent thermal and mechanical properties without compromising layer adhesion.
Wide Application: Fiberon PA6-GF nylon filament is strong, durable, and heat resistant. It is ideal for applications requiring torsional, tensile, and impact strength, such as bicycle pedals, brackets, jigs, drone frames, prosthetics, and handles.
Tangle-Free & Resealable Bag: Fiberon PA6-GF nylon filament in 1.75 is carefully wound to prevent tangling and is vacuum-sealed in a resealable ziplock bag with a desiccant. After use, pass the filament through the fixed hole to avoid tangles.
Cardboard Spool with Enhanced Hard Edge: Fiberon filament is packaged in upgraded materials, featuring a reinforced edge coating and a fully recycled cardboard spool and box. The hard edge prevents dust degradation and protects against deformation and delamination.
Jake –
Best filament you will ever use.
I printed the above image with a stock Kobra Max (260° max nozzle temperature. Although some people suggest it runs hot), 0.8mm nozzle(not a nozzle suggested for small gears)…I have been printing for a well over 5 years and it’s not just a side hobby. It’s not work but it’s an obsession. I’ve had many printers, I’ve tried innumerable brands and types of filaments. This is my first favorite. I’m going to write a simple list of why you should buy this filament.By far the strongest filament I have ever used. It’s a different kind of strength though. PC FG/cf, peek etc might be stronger in certain ways, But having the same volume as a regular kilogram, yet half the weight, it’s just something special. Just a note, the way this filament works is a lot like say porcelain. It’s an incredibly strong substance, but if you kind of chip away at it with say a pair of bolt cutters, it’ll break easier with scary pieces flying at you.. Kinda like that.Dimensional accuracy is off the charts. You make a hole, the whole will be the size you make it.I only have one printer that prints perfect every time. A toybox printer.. If you know what that is, you’ll understand. Anyway, this filament in my Kobra Max, is officially my new most consistent and reliable print. I use Cura to do the “print one at a time” (instead of all at once), and I can have 19 different prints I want done all in that one platform, and it’ll just go through one after the other and print them all completely accurate. No more checking every 30 minutes or hour. No need for a camera mounted on it or special failed print sensor…Keep the support material as low density as you can, but when it comes to the support interface and removing this support, it’s amazing. The support interface ACTUALLY works…… Really. And once you break off the support which CAN require a lot of strength (ice pick or smaller nozzle size suggested) You’re left with a manufacturer quality part. No post-processing necessary.A real quick note, I tried doing the flow reduction for the support material and it ended up failing. I’m sure it’s because this material is very thick/.8 nozzle/and printed well below the suggested print temp, But that did fail me. Anyway, I’m sure if you actually have the appropriate setup/settings you’ll be fine. Print your support flow to give you ~0.2 mm support line width. Then it should break off super easy, clean and without any excessive strength.Guess that’s really all I have to say. Aside from the fact that it also has a really nice texture. Oh, and make sure you use “alternate wall printing direction” or something like that. I’m sure even if you use a smaller nozzle size, there will be a little pull like with metal field or glass filled filaments. You want to make sure it changes direction each layer to avoid that warp and shit. If you use Cura, the newest update has that option in experimental or somewhere at the bottom.This is my summary. I’m using a stock printer, oversized nozzle, and very little is done to try and accommodate this filament suggested print settings. I’m honestly not even sure how it works.But regardless, I’m getting manufacture quality parts. Truly functional.I have every other filament. And although some might have higher strength in certain areas(and usually some disadvantages), but they all require some specialty equipment, tons of work to get it to stick or print clean. High build plate temperatures that waste electricity and often result in warping.And so on and on.And maybe ridiculous for me to say, but I think this is the best filament ever produced…(Aside from basic PLA for prototyping).I just want to know if it comes in 5 kg.
Gavin –
My new favorite filament
This review is for the PA6-GFMy settings: Neptune 4 plus with enclosure, Microswiss hotend and upgraded fan shroud. Nozzle 290, bed 50 (yes, only 50). And you definitely need a hardened nozzle AND hardened gears.I was blown away by how easy this is to use. I have more consistent success with this filament than even PLA. The parts are incredibly strong, I was able to thin the walls of some of my prop designs from 12mm in PLA Plus to 4mm with this. It also had a slight flex to it which helps with impact resistance (so it won’t just shatter).They also look great! Layer lines are hardly noticeable even at 0.2mm layer heights. It comes out with a rough texture that can be sanded. And so far I have had no adhesion issues. Supports usually snap off, although sometimes I need to use a razor blade on the tiny supports where they meet the print. Still, no worse than PLA.That said, there are some things to keep in mind:You have to print from and actively heated filament dryer. I splurged and got the EIBOS Polyphemus dryer, which was $150ish. I wanted it anyway but a good dryer that can consistenly keep the temperature at 70 is a must (70C is what I use for all prints with this filament).I also print with an enclosure. I’m not sure if you need it for the filament itself, but it gives off toxic particles. I have an activated carbon filter running at all times in the enclosure, you should too.Lastly, this is fiberglass. Working with fiberglass is dangerous, ESPCIALLY inhaling any particles. I recommend handling the prints with gloves (they have a rough texture and there’s a risk of tiny glass splinters). And ALWAYS use a respirator when sanding these parts.At $120 for 3kg it’s not a bad deal. I’ve stocked up on some rolls in case of coming tariffs, but I’ll definitely be using this for a long time.
sr –
Liefert sehr gute Ergebnisse, robust mit einer schönen Oberfläche. Allerdings ist hier ein gewisser Aufwand erforderlich, die hohen Temperaturen müssen genau eingehalten werden und die Trocknung muss regelmäßig erfolgen. Am besten ist es, aus einer beheizten Trockenbox zu drucken.
Matteo –
Stampato perfettamente con Qidi Plus 4.
3Dプリンターユーザー –
層間密着性が特に素晴らしい。感覚的にはZ方向の強度低下なし、他のPA-CFフィラメントだと、完璧な層間密着性を重視した造形条件だと、汚くなりがちだが、これはそれがない。綺麗な仕上がり。反りも全くない。欠点は密着性が良すぎるので、サポートの調整が難しい。オーバーハング角度は浅め、あと価格…基本条件は下記をベースにモデルごとに調整ノズル径：0.6mmノズル：260℃ ベッド：30℃ レイヤー高さ：1層目0.27、それ以後0.15mm速度：50mm/s 移動速度：100mm/sリトラクション：5.0mm、40mm/sファン：オフ
Vikinger –
Endergebins definitv besser als das Filament von Bambu. Beide habe ich verwendet, und bei bei 90C im Ofen nach Getempert. Das Filament geht direkt aus der Verpackung raus, in die Trockenbox, über den Sidewinder bei meinem Bambulab P1S. Keine einzigen Druckfehler. Beim Bambu PA6-GF muss das Filament erst ein paar Stunden bei 90C in den Ofen zum Nachtrocknen…. Nachteil natürlich ist das Profil anlegen, zumindest beim BAMBU Studio.
Simone Berretti –
ottimo. mi sono trovato subito bene. resistenza impressionante